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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 57 total)
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  •  michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Read btiday solution in the other thread, it worked for me just fine and is by far the easiest solution.
    Here is a step by step that btiday created.

    Using LWRF web page manager
    1/ Unpair and delete device using the edit function.
    2/ Unpair the handset.
    3/ Device is no longer paired to anything
    4/ Pair handset with device by using the on button when LW381 is set to linking mode (switched socket or by plugging in)
    5/ Turn off the LW381 via the handset.
    6 Using the manager in add a device mode, name the device and tell it its a switch.
    7/ Turn the LW381 on, to put it in linking mode (switched socket or by plugging in)
    8/ Start pairing using the manager
    9/ The LW381 turns on when pairing happens.

    Probably me just being thick but the following should suffice to explain matters further.

    The CRUCIAL STEP is the ALL OFF command rather than the device off command in the following step. I naturally thought the device off would work, which points to something wrong in the app, rather than user error. I tried this so many times and tried the room all off command as a last resort, which worked.

    5) Power off the unit. Power it back on and send Room 3 All Off from App while it is in pairing mode (LED flashing). Unit should respond by clicking it’s relay a few times. It is now purged. If relay does not click a few times then repeat this step as the command may have arrived too late. This is the critical step in the procedure to ensure the unit is completely cleared out.

     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    I tinkered with the idea of just buying a day/night sensor, but I have no way of simply reading its state.

    I would say using the arduino would be good, along with a simple opto device, however it would need to be close to a light source and shielded from ambient light or in fact a current sensor on the output of the switch. It wouldn’t matter how low the current was, as long as it was above the noise floor. It is only the current which is reduced not the Voltage level, as there is always going to be a minimum Voltage whenever a lamp is on, even if it is an LED.

    The second method is just a case of how physically intrusive you want to get.

    in reply to: Automatic Curtains #25384
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Make you own roller for less
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078GNYGS1/

    in reply to: Slow Homekit #25383
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    You wouldn’t want a battery operated device firing off on a schedule so I would imagine this is done when there is a change in temperature of a certain amount, rather than as a refresh.

    The only refresh I know of is where you pull down on the app display which causes a refresh to happen. I have no idea if this requests info from the thermostat.

    Further to this there is an auto refresh button on the PC manager in the heating section. Again I have no idea if that is a generic command or if it is just for viewing the manager data.

    in reply to: Can Device inputs be Read #25382
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    So at the moment I have a variety of devices for controlling switches as switches themselves.
    Magnetic reed switch sensors, Day/Night Sensor and PIR

    What I want to do is stop false triggers from the Day/Night sensor, by allotting a time period for that switch to be active.
    Now I can set the lux level easily enough, but during the day, the lux level can drop below the preset level and turn the lights on, particularly as it gets towards the darker months. Heavy rain clouds will reduce the light level and either at the start of the day or later in the day the light level can be poor to start with.
    Sometimes false triggers will happen where a light comes on then turns off again as a cloud reduces the light level. Not great for saving power is it.

    I also would like to use these input sensors for an assortment of purposes, not the least being a feedback system to determine if a device is on or off. Ideally I could do with current clamps which could be made with the help of the magnetic reed switches.

    The problem is how can I, in as simple a way as possible, read whether the devices have been triggered or not. If I could do this, then I could utilise various IFTTT apps to set up triggers as well as set a timer in LightwaveRF to only accept input from a sensor between certain times.

    In the case of a light sensor. If time is off don’t accept input, if time is on and trigger, then turn on a light.

    in reply to: Help installing LW920 Boiler Switch #25318
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    I have decided to revamp my system with the addition of a SPDT relay. I would add a drawing if anyone requests it but my solution to the above is quite simple.

    A LWRF switch is used to turn the boiler on or off, for boiling the water, which just leaves the problem of the Zone Valve and pump for central heating.

    A Single pole double throw relay is used to achieve this. The switched output(N/O) from the thermostat is wired directly to your zone valve and pump. A relay is then attached in the following way. The switched mains is attached to one side of the coil, with the other side of the coil to neutral. The switch contacts are wired so that the boiler is connected to one set of the N/O contacts and the pump/zone valve to the common.

    Whenever the Thermostat is triggered, power is sent to both the boiler and zone valve/pump.

    When the thermostat is not in use the boiler can be turned on as normal via the LWRF switch, which in turn can be programmed with your on/off times to suit you. I don’t see any need for a flywheel diode in this case, as switching is slow, but a suitable suppressing resistor capacitor should be used across the relay contacts to minimise arcing. Typically 47R(1/4 W should be enough) and 100nF capacitor in series across the contacts.
    I think you can pick up suppressors for relays, easily enough.

    in reply to: Help installing LW920 Boiler Switch #25317
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Doe anyone know what the P terminal is on the boiler switch LW920
    Connections are earth, N, L, L, n/o, com, n/c, and P?

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25292
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Thanks for the help.
    As long as the device is in pairing mode by itself, other devices are not affected with the all off.

    I have 2 x LW270′s and 3 plug in adapters. Only the socket that is in learning mode when the all off is pressed has any effect.

    Since I really need the communication to be there regardless of power outages, I just went down the route of a UPS. I may put a delay circuit in at a later date for any long power cut.

    No idea why you get 6 seconds delay from that circuit, but I would ditch the 3K3 resistor, as it just presents a load across the supply, which is not needed and serves no real purpose.

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25285
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Thanks for the clearer instructions.

    All done.

    The CRUCIAL STEP is the ALL OFF command rather than the device off command in the following step. I naturally thought the device off would work, which points to something wrong in the app, rather than user error. I tried this so many times and tried the room all off command as a last resort, which worked.

    5) Power off the unit. Power it back on and send Room 3 All Off from App while it is in pairing mode (LED flashing). Unit should respond by clicking it’s relay a few times. It is now purged. If relay does not click a few times then repeat this step as the command may have arrived too late. This is the critical step in the procedure to ensure the unit is completely cleared out.

    I have no idea why the all off command works whilst the device off command doesn’t but there you go.

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25281
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Just to be sure we are on the same page and to show you procedures have been followed.

    Using LWRF web page manager
    1/ Unpair and delete device using the edit function.
    2/ Unpair the handset.
    3/ Device is no longer paired to anything
    4/ Pair handset with device by using the on button when LW381 is set to linking mode (switched socket or by plugging in)
    5/ Turn off the LW381 via the handset.
    6 Using the manager in add a device mode, name the device and tell it its a switch.
    7/ Turn the LW381 on, to put it in linking mode (switched socket or by plugging in)
    8/ Start pairing using the manager
    9/ The LW381 turns on when pairing happens.

    If yours is not doing this you are lucky or you have not written the entire procedure that you have followed.

    I would love for this to work as you have described it, but no matter which way I try it never does.

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25278
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    (I powered and while in pairing mode I cleared it out by sending a room all off command whilst it was still in pairing mode. This completely purges all pairing info and the response to link power on messages,)
    Done

    (I then turned it off and paired it to room / device from the app by turning it back on and sending an on command whilst it was in pairing mode.)
    Erm its unpaired, How do you turn it off ? There is no switch on the MK1.
    The only way to turn it off and start the pairing is to remove the plug from the socket it is in, then plug it back in, There is no pairing button unlike the MK2 socket, which has.

    I Plug it in and start pairing which turns it on.

    Plug socket works normally until power failure to the link, which turns it on at power up.

    Back to square one. Believe I have tried all ways round to get this stupid plug/socket to work by remaining off in the event of a power failure.
    The comment made by the original poster on the other thread should verify everything I have said here.

    http://lightwaverfcommunity.org.uk/forums/topic/plug-in-sockets-incorrectly-defaulting-to-on-after-a-power-cut/

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25276
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Not so, you can have a light plugged into the MK1 plug sockets to test.
    Initialise a new plug socket with the light off. This is a known state of no power output. As soon as you remove power from the link, then turn it on at any period there after, the light turns on.

    Any delayed power just mimics manually removing and connecting the power. The delayed power is ineffective with Mk1 sockets as they always default to on.

    You could use something like a Raspberry Pi to act as a server, detecting any power outage and sending the UDP.

    Surprisingly enough even the lock commands are none functional

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25272
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Stopping the DC after power comes on is the same as power coming on after a mains cut. As I said or at least meant to say the problem is that with the plug sockets already powered on then the link powered any time after the plug sockets have powered, or even at the same time, the default of the socket is to turn on.

    This is the reason I checked to see if the sockets were the problem or the Link box.

    Thanks for the preamble time, it gives a good starting point, knowing as to what time period to allow before the signal can be allowed to communicate with devices.

    If it had just been the link box then a 555 delay timer could have been used with as you say a FET/relay As it is, a small addition internally, failing any software fix, would to be to pull up or down the data o/p line via a relay to each of the transmitters and thus clamp the lines for that period. The data line clamp would have to have a default of power off clamped (n/c) , until the timer period had timed out and releases the relay. This should not effect setup of any plug socket as these can be set up at any point in time.

    I found a different way unique to myself. I have LWRF pattress style sockets around the house, which all default to off and as my pug in sockets are all on 2 common plug boards ( Media Centre ) then I have the extension lead plugged into a socket. However there are othe sockets I would like to put on around the house which do need to default to off.

    The only other ways I can think of is to turn off these devices off at multiple selected periods of time or and this does sound convoluted, but does get around various problems, so bare with me.

    Use a light sensor connected to your system and any single plug in socket with a light attached to it. So under normal operation this socket is turned off, however just after a power outage this socket turns on, the light sensor operates and gives instant feedback at which point you have a trigger you can use to turn all plug in sockets off, including last of all the light for the sensor :)
    Cost around £23 and one plug in LWRF socket.

    in reply to: Using a standard switch with inline relay 500w #25267
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    Although the above method will work fine as an on/off mechanical switch, it has the drawback that you cannot use the link when the load is switched on. You do have another problem and that is that if the switch is on at the time of a power cut, then the occupant goes out, the light will come back on when power is restored.

    Why not just use a battery operated lightwaveRF switch, as the default state is off after a power cut. In other words an action of on is needed to turn the light on. This then can be used as a normal light switch.

    in reply to: Link1 Box Details #25264
     michael ward says:

    michael ward
    Participant

    I opened my V2 box up. No display, buzzer or switches is probably the reason for the change, as less build cost = more profit.

    Everything else is pretty much the same, including the 25PE20VP at IC3, Description is ” 1 and 2 Mbit, low voltage, Page-Erasable Serial Flash memories with Byte-Alterability, 50 MHz SPI bus, standard pinout” apart from a 6 pin header, which I presume is for the programmer, given it says so next to the pins. :) Looks exactly the same size as my PIC programmer PCB plug.

    Doubt if we shall ever see any code from lightwaveRF, but one can hope.

    Given lightwaveRF have said they cannot do anything about it, I would imagine this device is code locked and the flash is just used for parameter storage.

    The problem as far as the plug in sockets is concerned is that the LINK V1 or V2 needs to be powered before the plug sockets or you need to be notified that there has been a mains failure. A UPS is just a quick fix for short power cuts, up to something like 4 hours on a small UPS, but the problem will still occur for any long power outage. My original idea was to look on IFTTT to see if there was anything suitable to notify the user of a power failure.

    Next test will be to block the signal from the LINK, wait until it has powered up properly then remove the block, metal tin should do the trick. This get the PIC initialisation out of the way and will test to see if the plug sockets turn on when they are establishing communication with the link, after the initial boot process is over. I saw you say you could see a burst transmit at power up, so was wondering if this was the problem.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 57 total)