I understand this is a regular question.
I have non-dimming led lighting in the garden and the current dimming light switches cause the LEDs to flash, even at full power.
From conversations with your tech team these will be out in the next 2 weeks.
Can you please advise when they can be purchased?
The company don’t participate in this forum anymore – they just host it so that users can discuss the system with each other. I’ve found that the best way to get in touch is through the contact page on their website – they tend to get back to you pretty quickly.
Many thanks, I’ll give that a go.
Do what I did, built my own using the insides of the appliance plug modules – very simple – but you need a neutral in your switch box. I also used a small push button from maplin so I could operate it manually (soldered on using 2 small wires – dead easy).
For anyone wanting an in wall unit like a dimmer, I believe this is not possible (note I am not an electrician so stand to be corrected) - certainly I have never seen one for any home automation system that works on a standard inline light switch circuit – they all need either a neutral or some other wiring (cbus etc) to work.
It’s a shame the designers do not participate anymore.
Seems in this economic climate, listening to what the buyers actually want is f**king stupid!
I have several circuits which do not warrant a dimmer which I WOULD love to change to remote control – e.g. external movement activated door lamps. They habe their own intelligence so all they need is an on/off switch. The ability to turn this on and off based on time (which the design allows), would be great but does not warrant a dimmer module.
Similarly a triad/quad socket would be great and simple on/off light switch (single.dual/tiad and quad would be great. I mean, this is not major design work, just repackaging YET major income.
Come on, people. It’s money for old rope when you get down to it.
Lightwave is a good middle ground solution and it totally rocks for us home hobbiest (aka loads of BUYERS) yet the range of product is low.
This sort of thinking is why great companies fail. Do I need to mention Clive Sinclair?
Hopefully the company read this, even if they do not actively participate, they may be missing the boat.
There is a solution that would meet your needs, albeit not exactly what you want. Vesternet have battery operated dimmer switches which are just remotes and they look similar to the light switches. They can be mounted on a wall if you wish. They won’t dim a load directly, but talk to existing dimmer switches. Pair one of these with the inline dimmer and you have your remote on/off capability. You could also use the master mood switch, but that might be a bit overkill for a simple on/off capability.
I’ve just emailed lightwaverf — as these “non dimmable” switches – are exactly the product i need!
I hope the company are planning on making them,
I have ceiling fans — each wtih 3 bulbs. These fans CANNOT be used with dimmer switches – so right now now – i cannot use the current switches. (Unless i use inline relays somehow?)
Non dimmable switches are not likely to happen in the UK as they will require a neutral connection and a standard UK lightswitch configuration does not present a neutral to the switch location. The solution is to use an inline relay and a wireless on/off switch. I’ve just recorded a video how-to showing the new inline relay and will post it online as soon as I have finished editing it.
im not sure you can do requests — or if you’d even know how to do this — but do you think you could do a video that uses inline relays — but still lets a standard light switch work? I don’t like the idea of the wireless lw switch being the only switch.
even if the up/down switch changes (up to turn off / up to turn on) — it would be a great
do you think this would be possible?
I think this would, in theory be possible, but you would need to use the old two-way relay, not the new inline one and you would need a two-way light switch. You could probably use the new inline relay, but then you would have two sources of power to the light and you would need to switch both off for the light to go out.
You would connect L1 and L2 from your two-way el-cheapo light switch to the two outputs of the relay, the common of one of them to Live and the common of the other would be switched live. What ever position the switch is in, the relay would need to be in the other (and not ‘stop’ or nothing would work). The problem with this is that like standard two-way switches, you would need to switch the wireless switch on or off depending on the position of the standard switch and without knowing which position the standard switch is in, you wouldn’t know which button on the wireless on/off switch to press. Compare this with a standard rocker switch. It doesn’t really matter what position it is in, you know that you just need to switch it to the other one for the light to come on. The usability (and hence WAF*) of the system would be lessened. Does this make sense?
Personally I wouldn’t worry about having only one switch, don’t forget you can pair up to six transmitters with the relay (assuming it is the same as the other devices) so if the battery in the switch goes, keep a remote or a smart phone handy and you can still switch the light on or off. As a further safety option, if you are using a Wi-Fi link, there is a feature that allows you to set the relay to default on – I believe if you put the relay in pairing mode and reboot your Wi-Fi link, it sends out a signal which tells the device to default on when power is restored from a power cut. All you would need to do is power cycle the Wi-Fi link (assuming it is accessible, unlike mine which is in the loft) and when the Wi-Fi link reboots, it will send out a signal to the relay telling it to switch on. Of course the problem with this (which is actually the problem it was designed to overcome – sockets defaulting to off) is that in the event of a power cut while you are out, the light will come on and you will come home to an illuminated house and a higher electricity bill!
*WAF = Wife Acceptance Factor
II don’t know if my house is ‘odd’ however so far i have found a neutral connection in every light backbox, house was new build in 2003 by Bryants.
the non-dimming switch is much needed to control a ceiling fan/light though i could fit the new relay (having hacked a hole above the fan and fitted in the cavity, and paired with a wireless wall switch, it doesn’t provide easy access to the relay incase of issue, and i’d really rather not be hacking hole in the ceiling to fit the (somewhat overly large) inline relay. so yes a non dimming wall switch would be ideal, maybe some type of switch on the back of the existing dimmers, to change from dim to on/off?
speaking as an approved electrician (although i’m more software engineer nowadays) traditionally… having a neutral at light switches would be a waste of time.
of course with the recent changes in technology, products on the market, it would certainly help with what people are trying to achieve where non dimmable loads are considered.
however with the advent of wireless switches, paired with receivers you can achieve what you want without the hassle of dropping a switch wire wherever needed.
I think that it would be good to see a standard ceiling rose with lwrf receiver in built… swapping one of these aint too hard.
in the case of ceiling fans etc, a slim relay unit would be nice to see.
wireless switches give you far many more options…
Neildeveloper of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.
A simple on off light switch is an essential piece missing from the LightWave product range.
Having to make every light, interior and exterior, dimmable was a painful and very expensive process when it really didn’t have to be.
I have five 7w fixed-LED (Ikea) lamps in my garden which I don’t believe are dimmable but I ran a spur off the circuit to a pir wall light in my garage. The intention was that the garage light would come on when I open the garage door if it was dark (and the garden lights were therefore on). I later replaced the standard wall switch that operates the garden lights with a mains-powered dimmer by Lightwave for remote and automatic operation.
Curiously, the garage light now comes on with the garden lights and stays on (the integrated pir is doing nothing). And the garden LEDs are working as dimmable.
Someone might be able to explain why this is but my point is that you could try adding a normal light bulb in the LED circuit (perhaps by leaving one standard bulb if you have replaced them all with removable LED bulbs) to increase the resistance in the circuit. Someone once suggested simply wiring in a resistor but I’d need clear instruction on how to do that. Otherwise, I can’t quite understand why you need a negative wire to run an on/off switch if you don’t need one to run a dimmer. But then I was always a little baffled by electrickery.
Planning to have that technology installed, but I am bit concern if this one is best to use at the back of the door so it hid its feature.
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