Slave units wiring

This topic contains 19 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  andytvcams 2 years, 7 months ago.

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  • #462
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    So I’m no electrician but I thought I’d be able to install these. No problems with the one way switches – really easy to install. My problem cam when I tried to install the two way switch, or the master and slave units. I’m not sure if it’s because I have old wiring (yes, it’s still red and black), whether I’m a fool or if the unit (or units) is (/are) faulty.

    I’m inclined to think it may well be one of the first two.

    In my dining room I have two switches. When I take these switches out I am left with three wires in each location. two link wires in each which simply go from one box to the other and then I have a live wire in one box and a load wire in the other. To wire up the master and slave switches I needed to use one link wire to get the live to the opposite box and the other link wire to get the load to the opposite box. There is then no wires left to be the signalling wire!

    Does this mean that this isn’t compatible with the wiring I have or am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    #1443
     Tissy says:

    Tissy
    Participant

    Is it possible to post a drawing of your wiring, may be easier to understand your configuration.

    #1444
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    http://www.ishrimp.co.uk/lwrf.jpg[/img:6n1ttuxp]

    As a temporary measure I’ve wired the load and one of the link wires together to get the load to the same box as the live. The other link wire I’ve wrapped in insulating tape both ends and is unused. Then I’ve installed the master switch in the one box and just put a blanking plate on the other (for now).

    #1453
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    I’ve found a better diagram.

    http://www.ishrimp.co.uk/twls.gif[/img:2d1c7bhf]

    This is standard (old style) wiring for a two way switch.

    #1458
     Tissy says:

    Tissy
    Participant

    This is a direct lift from the Slave unit installation instruction which is what I have followed and should be able to be achieved on your wiring configuration.

    http://www.networkedsolutions.co.uk/lightwave/slave_diagram.jpg[/img:vtfy8zld]

    Full manual is viewable here:

    http://www.lightwaverf.com/manuals/Slav … r%20A7.pdf

    Hope this helps,

    Steve

    #1461
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    Thanks for you reply. The problem I have is that each unit (both the master and the slave) need a live and a load. In my house there is a live wire at one location and a load wire at the other. I can get a live and load to both locations but to do this I have to use the two available link wires to get them to the opposite boxes. Once that’s done there’s no wire left over to be the signal wire.

    Surely others must have found this problem in older houses using twin core plus earth rather than three core plus earth?

    #1465
     SimonCatlin says:

    SimonCatlin
    Participant

    iShrimp.

    I have/had the same problem. You have two solutions.
    1. Run new cabling
    2. Set one end as a master and where you have your slave "blnking" plate put a Mood Controller, which needs no wiring and replaces the blanking plate very neatly.

    Option 2 is cleaner, neater and less expensive than option 1.

    2 WiFi, 2 sockets, 11 light switches (7 single, 4 double), 2 mood controllers, 1 double wire free switch, 6 plug in on/off, 3 plug in dimmer, 2 PIR, 2 LED, 1 300W Inline relay, 2 signal booster, 1 Energy Monitor and 1 very patient wife. Also Heatmiser's Neo and Doorbot
    #1496
     Rogerthompson says:

    Rogerthompson
    Participant

    2. Set one end as a master and where you have your slave "blnking" plate put a Mood Controller, which needs no wiring and replaces the blanking plate very neatly.
    Option 2 is cleaner, neater and less expensive than option 1

    HI Simon – I like your second solutionsolution – I seem to have old wiring in my house which is only twenty years old! I have three switches for my landing lights. One is straightforward with the mains coming in on the common and then going to either L1 or l2. the downstairs switch has the mains coming in on L1 or L2 depending on the position of the first switch. The third switch at the top of the stairs is something I have never seen before. it is a four wire switch which apparently flips the signal wire over too..If I understand you correctly, I can wire in one as a master switch and then the other two switches I would either hardwire into a chocolate block connector in their current configuration or, wire seperately into a chocolate block connector so that there is no continuity between any of the wires?
    The wireless mood controller I understand.

    #1500
     SimonCatlin says:

    SimonCatlin
    Participant

    Downstairs, which is where the Master switch is has 3 wires. Red, Blue and Yellow. These are wired as per the diagrams. The yellow is the "switch wire".

    Upstairs is identical and I wired it correctly, but the Slave switch would not work. What I did was use a two sectional terminal block. The yellow wire was feed in one one side, with no wire on the other end. The red and blue were then joined together in the other side of the terminal block to complete the circuit. So effectively the switch wire becomes redundant.

    I then wrapped the terminal block in insultation tape to avoid any issues. I then hid the block in the recess box and then covered it over with the Mood Controller plate.

    I hope this helps.

    2 WiFi, 2 sockets, 11 light switches (7 single, 4 double), 2 mood controllers, 1 double wire free switch, 6 plug in on/off, 3 plug in dimmer, 2 PIR, 2 LED, 1 300W Inline relay, 2 signal booster, 1 Energy Monitor and 1 very patient wife. Also Heatmiser's Neo and Doorbot
    #1507
     Rogerthompson says:

    Rogerthompson
    Participant

    Job done! I did it at the weekend. All my wires were either red or earths. I put the switch on the middle landing by my front door and used the live and Load which were needed to turn the switch on and off. I then used a connector block and tape to isolate the other wire. from there I went to the other two switches and measured the continuity on the switches and then hard wired the wires into connector blocks again as if the switch was still in place – Put the wires into the back of the box and put a mood controller on the front of the unit. Everything works like a dream and best of all is that we can set moods for the upstairs and downstairs areas as we pass. Five moods instead of an on/off switch for the same price has to be good value! roll on the new products – I am well into this now!

    #1534
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant
    "SimonCatlin":dseyttbn wrote:

    Downstairs, which is where the Master switch is has 3 wires. Red, Blue and Yellow. These are wired as per the diagrams. The yellow is the "switch wire".

    Upstairs is identical and I wired it correctly, but the Slave switch would not work. What I did was use a two sectional terminal block. The yellow wire was feed in one one side, with no wire on the other end. The red and blue were then joined together in the other side of the terminal block to complete the circuit. So effectively the switch wire becomes redundant.

    I then wrapped the terminal block in insultation tape to avoid any issues. I then hid the block in the recess box and then covered it over with the Mood Controller plate.

    Yep – this is what I had to do and described above (or maybe on iShrimp) but wasn’t quite as thrilled as you. I just wanted simple switches.

    #1535
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    Bum. Surely a fair proportion of the UK population are going to have the same problem?

    You do not need any special wiring to use LightwaveRF. Any standard house-wiring which meets current safety standards will accomodate our retro-fit range of dimmers and sockets.

    Now I’m scared. Are LWRF suggesting my house is unsafe?

    I think they should change the phrasing to say if your electrical system complies with version 17 safety standards they’ll be retrofittable.

    I guess I’ll just have to put up with the mood controller. One of the main reasons I didn’t go for a Rako system was that you end up with control panels instead of switches and they’re not the user friendly to people not familiar with your setup. I wanted a solution that was easy and discrete with the addition of smart controll too. <img src=” title=”Sad” /> Oh well. I’m not changing systems again. I’ll just put up with it.

    #1633
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    On 22nd November I phoned LWRF about my set up. The guy I spoke to was really helpful and enthusiastic. As he couldn’t help me he said he’d get their in house electrician phone me to sort out my query.

    They didn’t ring. And why? I don’t know, but I can guess. As there is no solution for my problem. The guy I did speak to was <i>sure</i> that it would be able to be sorted. I imagine that he had to face the reality that their product isn’t as universal as he first thought.

    Anyone else got any solutions?

    #1634
     Andycots says:

    Andycots
    Participant

    Am sure there is a solution to your problem, probably quiet an easy one too, for an electrician, the products are universal that’s what universal means, been able to retrofit into any scenario, the problem is, is that not everybody’s domestic wiring is universal. Electricity is dangerous and you cannot see it, so for someone to ring you up n try n explain what to put where is really not easy, <img src=” title=”Confused” />

    Try n put up a bit of a drawing or some pics, maybe someone may be able to guide you a bit, how many lights n switches operate the light your trying to control, am sure it’ll be fairly straight forward in the end.

    Am sure yr house is safe, just maybe a bit differant, i am a domestic electrician and have seen a lot of houses in the last 20yrs, all differant. Unless its been rewired in last 10-15yrs then the older it is the more difficult it can be, because folk keep adding bits on all over :shock:

    Andy

    #1635
     iShrimp says:

    iShrimp
    Participant

    Diagrams at the beginning of this thread, as well as other people with same problem.

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