Has anyone attempted to use the LW400 or LW420 switches with Hue bulbs? I don’t want dimming capability, just on/off as Hue will handle the dimming.
Just trying to work out if that will work for me or if I have to finally install my relays and a wireless switch. I prefer the look of the standard 2 gang switch over the wireless and ease of install as well as I don’t have to route a power cable through.
If I pair the LW420 to my wifi link as an on/off switch – I’m hoping that may work?
Any advice would be appreciated.
It doesn’t really matter whether you want dimming or if you set the device type to ON/OFF, these are dimmer switches that are only designed to work with dimmable lamps that can receive the varied voltage a dimmer puts out. Hue lamps are not designed to accept anything other than 230v mains and would no doubt misbehave or may even become damaged if connected to a dimmer switch. Even set to 100% brightness and with the app set to ON/OFF they only output around 190v which may or may not be enough for the Hue lamp, but the switch would still operate as a dimmer locally.
I have some Hue light strips plugged into LightwaveRF sockets, so that I can switch them on and off with other LightwaveRF controlled lights using a LightwaveRF Mood switch. Would work with a wireless switch too. Or you could use a plus in LightwaveRF socket adaptor (NOT the dimmer version)
One thing has always puzzled me about Philips Hue…
I assume you have to leave the light switch in the On position at all times to be able to control it remotely?
If so this means for example when you go to bed at night you have to faff about with whatever remote control you use (Android, iOS, Hue controller, computer etc.) to turn the lights off instead of just flicking the switch when you walk past it?
And if you did continue the time honoured tradition of turning the switch off you would then lose all remote control capabilities of the bulb?
Is this a correct assumption?
The curious amongst us need to know.
Thanks & kind regards,
That’s correct. Hue bulbs are totally useless when turned off and there are no UK looking switches that would prevent you from turning them off!
I’ve seen someone butcher a Hue Tap controller and combine it with a light switch which could work (you’d have to hard wire lights to always on) but that costs a total of £100ish for parts and you lose half the Hue Tap functionality!
As I had a 2 gang switch controlling 4 hue GU10s each, I’ve put 2 500w relays in the wall where the switch was and to cover them I’ve put 1 x wireless 2 gang switch and 1 x wireless mood switch to cover the relays that I have put in.
It works well with my Echo where voice will turn on the lights if someone turns them off and I’ve got full Hue control through the Hue app or Echo once LWRF turns them on.
In hindsight I would never have got the Hue bulbs at all, cost a fortune. Wish I had gone LWRF from the get go! Only reason I’ve kept Hue is because the kids love what some of the apps can do with them (you can get a disco effect, different scenes etc).
Thanks for confirming that TheIMF. I have previously asked in a couple of Hue discussions on other forums but never received a reply. I understand why now.
The ‘always on’ seems extremely limiting to me. And that’s one fugly switch!
That sounds like a big hole in your wall where your switches are? I thought mine were bad when I had to remove existing 16mm flush mount boxes and chisel deeper to sink 35mm back boxes to take the LWRF dimmers.
Yes, with mine, the Hue strips are used as cupboard top lighting and we usually keep them on the same colour, so it is easier to control along with the other kitchen lighting. So the Lightwave solution works perfectly for this.
For the other Hue lights I do tend to use the Hue app to control them… although I have also used a great app called Demopad which enables you to design your own controller and can have Hue and Lightwave controlled in the same place. It takes a bit of know-how around which commands to send where, but worth taking some time and there is lots of advice on their forum, http://www.demopad.com is the site. I also use this to control TV/Audio and heating etc – have an iPad mounted on the wall in the hall and the same app on my iPhone.
One thing I really hate about Hue bulbs… when you turn the lights on, you can set the temperature of the bulb etc but as soon as you turn the lights off and on again, they default to a warm white which looks like 2600k ish. I’ve got 3000k the rest of the house and they look out of place.
@GlynH here’s how my switches look:
35mm boxes behind each switch hiding a relay each.
If anyone else comes on here to view this thread.
The advice that Hue bulbs don’t work with these switches is not right. I spent £100 on an electrician, £50 on two relays, £50 on a wireless switch and mood light because of the advice received here.
As I was interested to see if I had made a mistake, and also because the loud click of the relay and abrupt shut off of lights annoyed me; I called Philips who said their latest bulbs work from 110v up to 240v.
Tried a lw400 switch on 4 of the gu10s and they turn on fine so it looks like I’ve wasted 150 for no reason when a £50 switch would have sufficed.
The advice TheIMF has given is the most foolish advice you can follow. I did this despite my reservations and yes it does work very well for a while but then after a week things went very wrong.
I turned on the lights on a relatively new 420 only for smoke to start billowing out of the switch. Luckily I managed to throw the switch on the main board before it caught fire. Gave it 10 mins to cool then took it the switch to see it had to totally melted at the back and had this happened when I wasn’t home or in room the switch would have caught fire within 30 seconds imho.
So moral of the story is believe what lightwave tells you not some amiture from the internet… Lightwave switches done work with non dimmable switches, Philips hue are non dimmable therefore lightwaverf dosent work with hue
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