Lightwave range extender

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This topic contains 33 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  andyh747 3 weeks, 4 days ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 34 total)
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  • #7399
     Stokie21 says:

    Stokie21
    Participant

    Hi Dave, I have never looked into the relays if i can control them via my phone then its worth a look!

    #7400
     Chris says:

    Chris
    Key Master

    The relays are just like the plug in sockets. They respond to the same 433Mhz radio signals and will be just as dependent upon getting the radio signal out to the shed. Remember, the phone doesn’t control anything directly. All it does is talk to the Wi-Fi link. The Wi-Fi link talks to all the devices on the 433 Mhz frequency. An inline relay is good at what it does – I have one on top of my kitchen cupboards controlling some counter top lighting. I could equally have used a plug in module or a replacement socket, but the inline relay is tucked up out of the way and therefore less obtrusive. The down side is that if I want to pair it with a new controller, I need to get a ladder out and fish around on top of the cupboard to find it.

    I wouldn’t suggest an inline relay for the shed. If you have more than a socket or two and it is fed directly from the consumer unit, then the inline relay is unlikely to be powerful enough. I have a pond plugged in to a mains socket in the house (via an RCD plug) and that would be fine as it will never pull any more than the socket can give it (i.e. 3kW) but a ring going out to the shed via proper armoured cable could be much higher. Putting an inline relay in this would also make it all or none – i.e. all the power would either be on or it would be off. There would be no possibility of controlling devices individually.

    Finally, worth a reminder here, if you want to buy anything, please consider using the price comparison site. I like to think that this site is helping people a bit and the price comparison site helps keep this site going (web hosting sadly isn’t free). You don’t need to use home delivery – B&Q, Screwfix and Maplins all offer a buy and collect service so for a little up front work to order on-line before going to collect, the site benefits. Thank you.

    Chris Mills Founder and Editor - LightwaveRF Community http://cpmills.com/ http://lightwaverfcommunity.org.uk
    #7411
     Stokie21 says:

    Stokie21
    Participant

    Finally, worth a reminder here, if you want to buy anything, please consider using the price comparison site. I like to think that this site is helping people a bit and the price comparison site helps keep this site going (web hosting sadly isn’t free). You don’t need to use home delivery – B&Q, Screwfix and Maplins all offer a buy and collect service so for a little up front work to order on-line before going to collect, the site benefits. Thank you.

    ************************

    Thanks for that, I just look at it but could not find that product listed

    #7523
     Stokie21 says:

    Stokie21
    Participant

    Hi Guys, I have now got the remote control signal booster. Just to make sure I program it correct, I press the little button on the back and the led on the front will blink, I then use my iPhone and press on, for the light in the shed, and it then blinks twice

    that’s it?

    I then do it another 4 times for the other sockets, so I have 5 plugs done in total

    now I know it sounds silly, but its all new to me so I am unsure!

    does the “off” button work as standard after its been paired, or do I need to do an off also? which means I can only do 3 sockets? as off and on will be two of the six available memory spaces

    ( also the light flashes every 6 seconds, is that normal )

    thanks

    #7526
     cndawes says:

    cndawes
    Participant

    yes, that sounds correct, once you have paired the booster you still need to pair the devices though (unless you have managed to do that already within range of the wifi link)

    you don’t need to do the off buttons (all that does is unpair the device you paired!)

    not sure about the six second blink, a three second blink means you need new batteries …

    http://www.lightwaverf.com/upload/pdf/JSJSLW800_signal_booster_manual.pdf

    #7571
     Matt says:

    Matt
    Participant

    Finally, worth a reminder here, if you want to buy anything, please consider using the price comparison site. I like to think that this site is helping people a bit and the price comparison site helps keep this site going (web hosting sadly isn’t free).

    Hi Chris,
    I just ordered an RFXcom from the comparison page, hope something comes through towards your costs for the upkeep of the site.
    Cheers,
    Matt

    Lighting: LWRF LED strips, In-line dimmers, In-line relays and Plug-in modules, Inputs: Master mood switch, Magnetic door sensors, Handheld remote, Controller: Domoticz running on Raspberry Pi with RFXCom. Plus recently a stack of Z-Wave units!
    #7574
     Chris says:

    Chris
    Key Master

    Cool. Thanks @matt.

    Chris Mills Founder and Editor - LightwaveRF Community http://cpmills.com/ http://lightwaverfcommunity.org.uk
    #7615
     SimonCatlin says:

    SimonCatlin
    Participant

    Just for the record – you cannot have two wi-fi links on the same “network”.
    I’ve tried (I even have documentation saying you can), but it failed as the two wi-fi links get confused with each other.
    I pushed the second wi-fi link onto our second “network”. This is used only if the first wi-fi fails and is used only for manual operations.

    2 WiFi, 2 sockets, 11 light switches (7 single, 4 double), 2 mood controllers, 1 double wire free switch, 6 plug in on/off, 3 plug in dimmer, 2 PIR, 2 LED, 1 300W Inline relay, 2 signal booster, 1 Energy Monitor and 1 very patient wife. Also Heatmiser's Neo, Ring Bell, Ring Camera, Nest Protect, Canary...
    #7616
     skiv71 says:

    skiv71
    Participant

    hmm.. i was told you could :-/ in what way are they confused?

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.
    #7618
     btidey says:

    btidey
    Participant

    I only have 1 wifi link but I would have guessed that there are a number of factors that would need to be addressed to make multiple ones work together nicely.

    The phone app for example discovers the wi-fi link MAC hub address. I don’t know what search method it uses but it would find and support multiple ones.

    The wifi link also phones home to the JSJS servers and they would need to deal with more than one wifi link per account. There is a new wifi link button on the server settings screen but it is not clear to me whether that allows a second one or is just to replace the current set up.

    If this was sorted then the actual basic control strategy would be fairly straightforward if multiple units were paired with all devices as they could send the ons and offs without risk of conflicts. More complex operations like timers would be more challenging. The other strategy would be to be keep the pairing separated so that each link controls its own set of devices.

    #7624
     Chris says:

    Chris
    Key Master

    The phone app doesn’t know the address of the Wi-Fi link. It simply sends a UDP Broadcast to 255.255.255.255 and the Wi-Fi link hears this and responds. Two Wi-Fi links on the same network will both transmit the required 433 Mhz signal at the same time but because they will both have different device ID’s, there will be interference and the system will fail. You probably could have two Wi-Fi links, but they would need to be far enough apart to not share the same air space.

    Chris Mills Founder and Editor - LightwaveRF Community http://cpmills.com/ http://lightwaverfcommunity.org.uk
    #7627
     SimonCatlin says:

    SimonCatlin
    Participant

    Hi, Sorry for the confusion, I only had a short amount of time to make my point originally.
    @Chris – even if they are miles apart, the fact they are on the same network is the issue. I was told one has to assume master and the other slave to avoid configuration issues, i.e. the master is the one that holds the configuration and populates the slave with the configuration. That way the UDP packet is received once (to both Wi-Fi Links) then has to be relayed by both Wi-Fi, so that the command is received by the device (possibly twice). The confusion as I had I explained me two years ago was that firmware for Slave/mater is missing. It was always designed to be able to do it. I was also advised that should one fail, the other will take over the control solo.

    We have a second network coming into our home (1:Virgin Cable 100mb 2: PlusNet ADSL2+ 16Mb+) and the way I got around this was to have a second account and the second Wi-Fi Link controller acting as redundancy. Everything on this second Wi-Fi link is designed for manual intervention only. It does give me the option of re-booting Network 1 (Virgin Media router) as this is setup on a plug-in adapter. I also have the ability to reboot the master network Wi-Fi Link too, should that need to happen. I access this via the web only to avoid issues with my iPhone and the master account.

    @btidey – The new Wi-Fi Link button effectively allows you to change accounts. Again, 2 years ago, I was advised that they was going to an app change to allow for multiple Wi-Fi links on the same phone as they recognized they needed this for second home owners and those with larger houses.

    @skiv71 see answer to @Chris

    To be honest, the range extenders do work well. I have two (needed second as I ran out of devices – max 6 – on the first extender). Not tried “daisy chaining” them though. Again, the idea that it re-broadcasts the signal is wrong, (as it has already been pointed out) it only works on the devices that you program the range extender with.
    Have fun.

    2 WiFi, 2 sockets, 11 light switches (7 single, 4 double), 2 mood controllers, 1 double wire free switch, 6 plug in on/off, 3 plug in dimmer, 2 PIR, 2 LED, 1 300W Inline relay, 2 signal booster, 1 Energy Monitor and 1 very patient wife. Also Heatmiser's Neo, Ring Bell, Ring Camera, Nest Protect, Canary...
    #7638
     btidey says:

    btidey
    Participant

    Following on from the useful info from Chris on the app just broadcasting control packets on 255.255.255.255:9760 on UDP I did a few network captures using the updated Android App as I wanted to find out what it was doing to go remote or use a local connection to wifi-link.

    As far as I can see there is no explicit back packets to the phone but the Wifi-link is putting out ARP requests about every 3 seconds effectively advertising its presence on the local network. So I guess the app is using that to know whether there is a local wifi link available. If not then it goes remote.

    There is also a setting in the app called test remote link which seems to force the app to go remote even though there is a wifi link available.

    #9335
     Glassdome says:

    Glassdome
    Participant

    Hi there. I have been reading this thread with interest as I have the same problem. I am controlling an inline relay from my iphone via the wifi link. The relay is at the bottom of the garden and sometimes it work, sometimes it doesn’t (c. 200 feet from the house). I bought a signal booster the other day from screwfix as per petrolheads link.

    I put the batteries in, pressed the learning button, pressed the garden lights button on my iphone and it seemed to learn fine. When I then press the garden lights button, the led on hedge signal booster comes on, but the lights in the garden do not. The signal booster is clearly picking up the iPhone command as I see the wifi link blue light come on, then the signal booster orange led light.

    Any ideas what the issue could be? I have even walked down the garden with the signal booster to make sure it is not a distance issue.

    Am I right in understanding that I should be able to programme it from the iPhone as strictly speaking the signal booster is not learning from the iPhone but the wifi link? Perhaps I should erase the learning and start again?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance

    #9336
     cndawes says:

    cndawes
    Participant

    I’d try redoing the pairing to the socket/relay … I think I had to do that with mine and it can’t hurt …

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