I am looking at the possibility of putting LED strips at the base of the kitchen units and have had a look around at various options. There are a lot of different strips out there that are a lot cheaper than the lightwave offering – how have people done this so far ( I want them to come on with the rest of the kitchen light).
I’ve got some interest in this too for a big project next year.
Unfortunately LightwaveRF don’t seem to have any plans to support RGB systems, and that’s what I’d like. So what I’m after is a system with independent control for now with a view in the future that LightwaveRF could control this.
It’s been a rocky road trying to keep a unified control system, and this stumbling area nearly resulted in me ripping out my LWRF investment entirely. But the alternatives are either ugly (wife says no!) or super expensive. I’m trying to light a humble small home, not a super yacht!
What I can tell you from everything I’ve read so far, especially for kitchens is don’t skimp on quality and go for reasonable IP ratings (the best are IP65). There’s so much of a range of quality, normally reflected in the price. As soon as you’ve got a product made to standards, quality bright LEDs, etc, you don’t need to spend any more money. By that time though, it’s a premium product! What would you rather have, strips you want to replace every year, or a quality long life product? You pays your money…Chester
I already had LED strip lighting under the kitchen cabinets – Ikea ones. These revert to the last state when powered up. At the moment they are connected via the plug in remote switches and operate on timers. Maplin do a lightwave LED driver
Is that really a LWRF product? I saw them demoing RGB LEDs at the Gadget Show last year, but not this year. As far as I know, this development has been shelved.Chester
There was (are) RGB controllers out there, Megaman had a bunch of them in stock when I last asked. The problem is that they require common cathode LED strips which is like Rocking Horse Sh*t in the UK because a) the market has been swamped with el-cheapo Chinese common anode kit and b) because you have to buy 1000M at a time and no one is willing to do so!. All of the cheap-as-chips strip out there is common anode which isn’t compatible. It is however possible to convert between the two with a simple electronic circuit involving three resistors and three transistors, but no one is manufacturing this. If you have the balls to have a go yourself, google it, I did and am thinking about having a go at some point, it doesn’t look difficult.
Other than that, you can stick to just a single colour (no issue with strips) or use RGB strip with an inline relay – one of the 240V ones will work if your controller remembers it’s last setting when powered on, or you could use one of the older volt free relays and wire this inline with the anode (+) connection of your strip. This would have the advantage that your controller should maintain it’s state, but the disadvantage that you are keeping the PSU and controller powered even when you have the lights off and would need two controllers – one to set the colour, and a LWRF one to switch it on/off.
Thanks Chris. All this LED strip stuff is a big learning curve. I’ve got time so I’ll take in as much advice as I can get, if my tired head will take it!
Further thought, combined forum buy? If the common cathode stuff is far superior, I wouldn’t mind buying a length in and dividing it down if it helps forums members (here and elsewhere) out. Needs some more thought/discussion time I think.Chester
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