Best way to run kitchen cabinet / plinth lights through LW

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This topic contains 12 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Justin 2 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #24068
     Lee says:

    Lee
    Participant

    I currently have a standard double socket int he corner of my kitchen, which is wired to a lightswitch, next to the ceiling light switch.

    The idea is for this to be able to plugin transformer cabinet and plinth light kits, and operate them using the lightswitch, which currently works fine.

    However, I want to put a LW light dimmer on the wall, and don’t want a 2 gang (as I want the ceiling spots to dim, but the socket in the corner cannot be dimmed, so I’m getting rid of it.

    So my question is, and this is my plan for the cabinet/plinth lights to be oeprated via LW…

    I’m going to remove the lightswitch, and make the feed perm live to the socket.
    THen I’m going to remove the socket, and replace it with a LW821 relay. Then, I’m thinking of hard wiring a 4 way extension board into the output of the relay, allowing me to plug in any cabinet / plinth light kits as I can do currently with the double socket.

    Because each plug of the light kits will be fused, as well the relay itself.. will this be okay to comply with any electrical regs?

    Is this the simplest way, of being able to switch cabinet/plinth lights On/Off and set timers?

    #24070
     nevetsecirp says:

    nevetsecirp
    Participant

    I am not an electrician, just a diy installer
    Firstly I do not understand why a double socket would be connected to a light switch, power circuits and lighting circuits should be on different circuits and have different current ratings etc
    In a kitchen you have to comply to certain aspects of Building regs under part p and what you are describing by having power sockets and lighting certainly does not sound like it meets this and certainly your plan of connecting a 4 way socket adapter to a lighting circuit does not meet I would think
    Maybe a proper electrician can advise more

    LWRF light switches in several rooms, WIFI Link, Energy Monitor, Socket x3 and multiple On/Off adapters. PIR controlling lights and doorbell utilising light feature. TRV's for heating. Relays for garden and outside lamps Linked with Amazon Alexa via a dot
    #24071
     Lee says:

    Lee
    Participant

    I know all of this, I explained the socket is connected tot he lightswitch, so that the previous owner of the house could plug in cabinet lights, and be able to switch them On/Off via the lightswitch.

    I would’ve thought depending on the size of the fuse in the Relay, would make it safe enough to wire to the lighting ring?

    There is an actual double socket near by, that I could take a spur from, but this socket is a spur itself. So would the fuse in the relay make that safe as a buffer, in taking a spur from a spur?

    #24072
     Node Zero says:

    Node Zero
    Participant

    For this to be compliant all you need to do is change the socket to a 5amp round pin socket for lighting circuits. Anything that you plug into this socket is not classed as part of the installation so it doesn’t have to comply with anything. Cut the plug off your 4gang extension and replace it with a 5amp round pin plug. The LW relay can be wired in behind the socket if there is room or inline of the extensions cable, preferably in a suitable adaptable box with strain relief on the cables.

    #24076
     Lee says:

    Lee
    Participant

    Node Zero, what your suggesting is far from the solution.

    Firstly, I want to get rid of the socket on the wall, and replace it with a relay so I get a simple On/Off control over that entire circuit.

    I have several pre-wired LED kits, with transformer plugs, which I cannot replace for rounded pin.

    If I take out the light switch, creating a perm live to the relay, put a 5amp fuse in the relay, and then wire the 4-way extension, that would do the same as your suggestion, but without a rounded pin plug (which was unneccessary).

    If the relay has a 5amp fuse, that would make it safe, correct? ANd awlays on, and on the lighting circuit, so all is labelled correctly also.

    All of this is going to be hidden ontop of a wall unit, right up at the ceiling, so it won’t be seen, touched or interfered with. I plan to put the relay inside an enclosure anyway, and might even use a surface mount unswitched socket next to it instead of a standard 4way extension.

    A question I’ve awlays wanted to ask though, is can the 821 relay be screwed inside any generic suface mount back box, or are the screw lugs only sized and positioned to be fixed into Lightwave’s own waterproof enclosures?

    If I can use MK logic stuff like this – http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2228109/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Fuses_And_Sockets_And_Circuit_Breakers-_-Electrical_Installation_Accessories-_-PRODUCT+GROUP&matchtype=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0sjI3dyk1gIVL7ftCh3apgx8EAQYASABEgIchvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    This will then match all of the plug sockets, fixed spurs and other stuff in the kitchen.

    #24077
     nevetsecirp says:

    nevetsecirp
    Participant

    Again from a Diyer point of view, practically what you are saying can be done, but legally it is questionable because you are mixing a extension lead that has no additional protection onto a lighting circuit directly via the relay, and although you may not plan to put any load into the 4 way sockets, somebody else could

    LWRF light switches in several rooms, WIFI Link, Energy Monitor, Socket x3 and multiple On/Off adapters. PIR controlling lights and doorbell utilising light feature. TRV's for heating. Relays for garden and outside lamps Linked with Amazon Alexa via a dot
    #24078
     Lee says:

    Lee
    Participant

    But if there’s only a 5amp fuse in the relay, and the board gets overloaded.. the fuse will blow, and the rest of the lighting circuit will be protected, right?

    #24080
     Node Zero says:

    Node Zero
    Participant

    I have several pre-wired LED kits, with transformer plugs, which I cannot replace for rounded pin.

    I think you may have misunderstood what I wrote. The transformer plugs stay as they are. The round pin lighting socket is only necessary to be compliant for example if you ever have an insurance assessor round after a fire etc.

    The fuse inside the 821 is already less than 2 amps and they do fit inside an enclosure as small as a 25mm 1g backbox.

    #24081
     Lee says:

    Lee
    Participant

    How deep is the 821? I can put it in a double enclosure if a single isn’t wide enough. WIll it fit inside a 35mm enclosure okay?

    I think overall it’ll be fine

    #24082
     Node Zero says:

    Node Zero
    Participant

    The relay is around 25mm deep. A 35mm back box will be fine with a blank plate on, but if you intend on putting a socket on you’ll have to ensure the guts don’t protrude more than 10mm.
    HTH :)

    #24128
     Looneyfitter says:

    Looneyfitter
    Participant

    Electrical wise. There is nothing wrong with controlling a socket from a light switch. You could have 20 sockets if you wish. .

    #24129
     Looneyfitter says:

    Looneyfitter
    Participant

    Bridging the switch is no different than having the light switch turned on. The circuit is already fused at the mcb.

    #24147
     Justin says:

    Justin
    Participant

    Electrical wise. There is nothing wrong with controlling a socket from a light switch. You could have 20 sockets if you wish. .

    But not on the lighting circut though…… What is being suggested is very questionable. As suggested earlier, the use of round pin 5amp sockects seems to be the best approach, at least this method highlights the use of the lighting circut for the supply.

    Wifi link, plug in adapter's, wall and mood switches. Heating controls sometime?? We'll see. Lol
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