400 Series Dimmers now available and 10% OFF at LightwaveRF.co.uk to celebrate!

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LightwaveRF Community: Welcome Forums Special Offers 400 Series Dimmers now available and 10% OFF at LightwaveRF.co.uk to celebrate!

This topic contains 78 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by  Chopper 3 years, 10 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 79 total)
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  • #14198
     rhlangdon says:

    rhlangdon
    Participant

    Switches arrived.

    Have installed one so far, in my hall where there is a 3 bulb light fitting – E14 golf ball bulbs. Works fine with normal bulbs and is happy with the older version of the slave unit.

    I tried 5 watt E14 golf balls obtained from LEDHut some time back and no good. All three (15 watts) remain lit even though the switch is off.

    I then tried some Candle shaped E14 LEDs I have, each is 3 watt (12 watt in total) and they work fine although not right for the fitting. With one bulb in it comes on when the switch is off but two or more and all remain off until switched on.

    The dimming is not so great. They do dim but not as far down as before. However, dimming in this location is not a concern for me, I just want to use LEDs and at present cannot.

    I have another switch to change in my lounge where I have 4 wall lights and each takes a candle shaped bayonet fitting bulb. Will report back when able to change this and use LEDs.

    Shows the variation in the bulbs though. 3 X 5watt bulbs and it does not work but 3 X 3 watt bulbs and it does!

    #14199
     rhlangdon says:

    rhlangdon
    Participant

    Update.

    I have replaced the light switch in my living room with a new 400 series unit. It controls 4 wall lights, each takes a B22 candle bulb. I replaced the bulbs with 4 x 5 watt candle B22 LEDs and when switched off they stay on with a low glow. I have replaced one bulb with a “normal” one and all works fine as I imagine it should. I am not sure of the make of the candle LEDs I am using nor indeed the golf balls mentioned above. I just have a number for the candles which is LDBP5WB22COA3000KD. A google search on this number gives me http://www.lamps2udirect.com/led-light-bulbs/5-watt-bc-b22-dimmable-led-candle-light-bulb/141893.

    Will leave 3 LEDs in and one “normal” for the time being but will make enquiries to find out what is compatible.

    Again the dimming is not fantastic. The “normal” bulb dims right down but the LEDs I’d say to about 50%. This does not concern me in this location.

    I’ll get there eventually! Its nearly mid June – no heating products yet!

    Richard.

    #14200
     skiv71 says:

    skiv71
    Participant

    Have you tried a real dimmer? :)

    http://lightwaverfcommunity.org.uk/forums/topic/fibaro-dimmer/

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.
    #14201
     rhlangdon says:

    rhlangdon
    Participant

    “Real Dimmer”

    Yes, but not recently. I know that an ordinary dimmer of the right type (leading edge ? trailing edge – I can never remember which it should be!) works OK, also the LightwaveRF in line dimmer relay is fine but I understood the latest LWRF switches were meant to cope. It just may be poor bulbs I have as have had them some time and standards have improved. I have some Magaman 7 watt dimmable Golf Balls on the way and will see how these do.

    #14202
     skiv71 says:

    skiv71
    Participant

    I meant the fibaro dimmers :)

    They are in a different league, full brightness etc.

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.
    #14203
     skiv71 says:

    skiv71
    Participant

    “Real Dimmer”

    … but I understood the latest LWRF switches were meant to cope.

    Yes and the heating stuff was supposed to be out too. :P

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.
    #14204
     rhlangdon says:

    rhlangdon
    Participant

    Fibaro

    ? compatibility with LWRF. I have LWRF stuff all over and am not disposed to change it.

    Heating? The sun is shining, who needs heating?!! Anyway we were told June but not which one!

    #14206
     crikeyjp says:

    crikeyjp
    Participant

    Hi skiv71,

    Do the fibaro dimmers do soft on/off? We’ve all mentioned that this is important to us.

    I’ve got a bunch of fibaro kit already, just not the dimmers, but liked the LW retrofit, look, soft on & (original) price. Sadly these advantages are ebbing away…

    #14207
     skiv71 says:

    skiv71
    Participant

    Hi Crikey,

    Yes they do… and you can control the ramp effect too, for range and time.

    Full brightness too :)

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.
    #14208
     crikeyjp says:

    crikeyjp
    Participant

    Interesting… but price will rule them out for now. £48 per dimmed circuit plus the cost of a switch, even more than the new LW range. And less economies of scale for the 2-gang, 3-gang, etc versions.

    Full brightness – weirdly I don’t find it an issue. I was originally gutted to not get the full brightness I got from my inherited 1980s gold-plated, rotary dimmer (and lovely they were too!) but over time you just forget what it was like. Always have the option of upping the bulbs wattage anyway.

    #14209
     rhlangdon says:

    rhlangdon
    Participant

    New light master switches not compatible with older slaves . All worked properly when I installed the new master switch but now, a few hours later, the slave unit is showing the light as on when it is not and is not operating as it should. The slave now does not switch the light on. Looks like I need to buy a new slave unit now. Great that all this is not made absolutely clear at the outset!

    #14210
     rhlangdon says:

    rhlangdon
    Participant

    My solution I guess is to abandon the use of a slave unit and get a 2 gang battery operated switch to pair with the relevant lights..

    #14211
     cndawes says:

    cndawes
    Participant

    That’s very annoying to say the least …

    #14212
     hussein says:

    hussein
    Participant

    I’ve had mine up for a while now, I even wrote up a review thread but that got eaten as ‘spam’ because I put some links to the lamps I’m using… There goes a bunch of effort for nothing.

    Anyway, I got:
    3x JSJSL400WH
    1x JSJSL420WH

    Let’s start with the 2 Gang Dimmer.


    Blimey

    They are not kidding about needing a 35mm back box. I’m fitting all my switches in Crabtree 35mm Dry Lining Boxes, and they have Neutral Connections in them too (Yes. Modern wiring). I had to push out one of the knockouts at the rear of the dry lining box and hang the neutral strip connector through there to have any chance of fitting this dimmer. I could have also used push-in type maintenance-free (eg Wago) connectors because they may be small enough.

    Anyway, I have one circuit with:

    4x Megaman 141751 7W 500lm GU10
    - Off is Off
    - Smooth Dimming
    - Reaches Max Brightness
    - COMPATIBLE

    Pretty happy with that, it works 100% perfectly. On the other gang I have:

    5x Megaman 148760 7W 400lm E14 Golf Balls
    - Off is NOT Off, lamps stay on ~5%
    - Smooth Dimming
    - Reaches Max Brightness
    - INCOMPATIBLE


    This is supposed to be OFF.

    Not so great. rhlangdon, you may be disappointed. I would expect the new ‘IncandaLED’ Megaman range to be the correct compatible E14 / B15 / E27 / B22 Candle and Golf Ball range. The only thing is that they max out at 3.5W / 250lm at the moment for golf balls. I think it’ll be enough though, I’m going to consider swapping them out. Plus, they are the right size compared to the taller 7W’s which stick out a bit on my light fitting.

    I had an idea that maybe the radio LightwaveRF magic was powered from one side and the other side may be able to provide a real 0V Off. I swapped the circuits over Left->Right, Right->Left… but no, it appears to draw a bit of power from both circuits and regardless which side they are connected to, the 7W Golf Balls still stay on.

    Okay, moving on to the 1 Gang ones.


    I like big butts and I cannot lie

    On two of these I have the same lamp:

    1x Philips MasterLED GLS A60 17W 1055lm B22
    - Off is Off
    - Smooth Dimming
    - Reaches Max Brightness
    - COMPATIBLE

    Pretty sweet. On the other one, I have the following:

    2x Megaman 148246 Opal Classic GLS 10.5W 810lm E27
    - Off is Off
    - Smooth Dimming
    - Reaches Max Brightness
    - COMPATIBLE

    Works well, quite happy with that.

    In general they actually reach a higher maximum brightness than my previous Varilight V-Pro dimmers, and they actually behave much better with the Philips lamps too (the V-Pro would randomly have a very slow ramp up time with those). Quite happy with them, even if the 7W Golf Balls are a bit of a disappointment.

    I wish they would have an optional Neutral Connection which would give you a real ’0V Off’ on the load if you did connect it.

    http://hussein.jodiyawalla.co.uk/
    #14217
     cndawes says:

    cndawes
    Participant

    Great review @hussein ! I think I might actually try one as it all seems down to the bulbs (again!)…

    I have a 2 bulb 1 gang with Slave set up in the lounge at the moment that I just can’t get to work with LEDs … still burning 84w (ouch!) so if I can get this down to 20w(ish) and over 1500lm like your last example it would be great. Only question is if the slave increases the load needed …

    One question … is the packaging any easier to get into, it looks like it might be ?

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ABOUT Chris

Chris works as a techie for a large IT service provider. He is a geek at heart and loves nothing more than trying to automate his home. The problem is, his wife simply doesn't get it and can't understand why they can't have 'normal' lights like everyone else! Chris is dedicated therefore to implementing automation in a family friendly way.

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