Yay. New toys!
The 3kW (3000 watt) inline relay and 250W inline dimmer are now available to purchase on-line. They are listed in the price comparison section of this site with links to retailers currently selling them:
The 3kW relay can be used to switch high powered loads and massively exceeds the capabilities of the previous 250W inline relay. It could potentially now be used to switch heating loads or an immersion heater providing it does not exceed 3000 watts. It has a built in timer function allowing the connected load to be automatically switched off without needing to use the timer functions on the Wi-Fi link or your smart phone – Do your kids leave the bathroom light on? Well now you can make sure it is automatically switched off if they forget to without needing to install things like PIR sensors etc or you could configure a water heater boost function which heats water for 1 hour before automatically switching back off again. The possibilities are endless!
The 250W inline dimmer can be installed in the ceiling void and offers an adjustable dimming range to increase compatibility and eliminate flickering experienced with some types of LED lamps. It can dim up to 250 Watt incandescent or transformer loads and requires a minimum of just 3 Watts when used with dimmable LED loads.
Both inline devices have just one switched output so probably aren’t suitable for electric screens etc which might require two. The original (two position) inline relay is still available.
OK – I think this is my mind made up for me – I am going for a “modern” wiring approach in the new extension and fitting no wall mounted wired switches – all lights will be controlled by master switches and wireless switches and inline relay dimmers or non-dimmers. This will let me go for whatever zone sizes I want (40W no longer an issue) and also I reckon that this may end up being economically viable as the first and second fix will be cheaper and easier.
Am I an idiot? (not rhetorical)Two floors tooled up for light and power! Lighting circuits: 5 x 1 gang, 5 x 2 gang, 3 x 3 gang, 6 relay circuits, mainly LEDHut 5W LEDs (91!) but also outdoor SON lamps, LED kitchen lights, LED candle bulbs, halogen bulbs and a dimmable CFL, 5 mood controllers, two remote switches, 2 PIRs. Power: one remote socket, 9 plug in modules. Patiently waited for the heating modules for years, and am a little underwhelmed....flirting with evohome....and please don't tell me "there is a better way" and try to sel
These are pretty cool, and I have similar thoughts to djtomkins – we’re planning a major kitchen install so these would simplify the lighting situation.
I’ve some hesitations though… Firstly, I’d want switching for three circuits (main ceiling, extractor, under wall units). As far as I can see, the wireless switches only go up to two circuits (whereas the wired one goes up to four). Is that true? I could obviously just use two adjacent switches, but that looks a bit more messy.
I have a single wired dimmer switch at the moment. The look and feel of it are of a really good quality bit of kit. I haven’t had first hand experience of the wireless switches, but they don’t look quite as nice – can anyone comment on this?
My other hesitation is related to longevity and what happens if LWRF goes belly up. If I use wired switches and one of those switches fails (and I have read more than one account of this happening), I can always revert to traditional kit. If an in-line dimmer fails, I’m probably going to have to start chiselling out my walls if I want to revert to old fashioned switches.
That being said, I’d really like to use this kit. Any thoughts?
(sorry for the delayed response).
Yes, the wireless switches are 2 gang max but I read on here about someone attempting to replace 2 of the gangs on a 3 gang wired switch with the module from a wireless 2 gang. Not sure if they had any success as they seem to be slightly different in size. If it is possible then I suppose you could modify a wired 4 gang switch with the guts of two 2 gang wireless switches. Or even a wired 3 gang with the guts of a 1 and 2 gang???
The biggest difference between the two for me is that the wireless ones don’t have the constantly lit blue/amber led which act as a great switch locator in the dark.
I’d be surprised if that will work. I plan on buying a wireless on/off switch during the coming week, but looking at it it seems to share the pattern of the mood remote. The ‘gubbins’ in the mood remote are quite a bit bigger than the wired dimmers in order to, presumably, achieve the flat appearance and ability to stick them to the wall. A nice alternative product would be for JSJS Designs to develop a shorter and narrower, but deeper, on/off switch which could sit alongside a dimmer in a backbox but if I am suggesting that, I should also suggest they make their modules euro module size so they could fit in any standard euro module faceplate.
Yes, the on-off switches do look similar to the mood switches, and in fact the grey section actually sticks out a bit further. I saw them at the Gadget Show today and was very disappointed as they don’t really match the rest of the range at all. I would have been happier had they made the whole unit a little deeper, but kept the front plate area basically flat.
How would one of the 250w dimmer relays be wired up to replace a light witch in my porch! Idea being wiring it to replace the switch and then use a door contact on the front door to trigger the light upon entry? Obviously my light switch has just got an earth, common and a live???
You would need to install the relay in above the light fitting so you had access to a neutral connection. You could just use one of the standard dimmer switches (that don’t require a neutral connection) and then pair the door sensor with that I think (or use a PIR) to switch it on/off.
Thats a shame as i had an idea of mounting the relay above the door and putting a wireless switch down at a level matching all the other switches as at the moment the porch light switch is about 3 inches above the front door! Not ideal at all, thought i would use this method to cure the prob but seems im back to the drawing board and i dont really wanna start channelling Cables in the porch as it was only built a few months before we brought the place
The main issue is that you need to get two cables to the relay. One to power it and one to power the light. If the light switch is above the door, could you use the cable already in it to pull a new cable through from the ceiling rose (assuming that is where they all go back to)?
Yeah thought of that and when I looked they seems to have got they have put the cable behind the front door plastic edging trim and I don’t really wanna start pulling that of to see where is goes!
I would like to get LightwaveRF control on my immerison heater in the bathroom. I thought that the Electric radiator switch would work as a direct replacement for the current FSU in the bathroom cupboard, or my other thought was to use a 3kw inline relay and a wirefree switch on the wall for manual control. But I can’t visualise how to connect the relay. Does the relay replace the switch on the wall or do you instiall it “inline” between the switch and the heater?
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